Sadly there's a lot of very average Bourgogne Chardonnay out there - Mâcon dressed, certainly priced as Montrachet. Not so here. Respected Chablis cooperative (dating back to 1923, no less) using Chablis grapes as well as those from some of the more famous villages of Burgundy's Cote d'Or further south. Wafts and waves of complex creamy stone-fruit, finishing with structure and length. Very smart indeed for the money, easy to feel smug drinking this.